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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.